Thursday, May 09, 2024

Ireland/Scotland, Day 1: Dublin

We took a nearly two-week trip to Ireland and Scotland, starting with Dublin! Here's day 1.

We tried to visit Trinity College Dublin for the library and to walk around the campus, but it was closed to outsiders due to the student protests. (We later found out that they opened up later that day - d'oh! A reason to get back to Dublin, I guess.)

We walked around two green spaces in the city, St. Stephen's Green and Marion Square Park. While we were tooling around, we saw a sign for a portraiture exhibit with a Vermeer at the National Gallery. Dave was really excited, although it turns out that he had already seen that Vermeer in DC. Still, lots of interesting Irish art on view at the museum generally. 

Our first lunch in Ireland was French: Restaurant Patrick Gilbaud. It was recommended by our book (Lonely Planet Ireland 15th ed., 2022) and has a Michelin star. Giddyup! It was multiple courses of deliciousness; not our most budget-friendly stop, but there were really excellent local ingredients so we still got to taste Ireland. 

The National Museum of Ireland was our post-lunch stop; it was interesting to see all the beautiful jewelry, crosses, and metalwork from Irish history.

After that, we hit two churches. The first was Saint Patrick's Cathedral, my favorite church of the trip. The tile work was stunning.

Tiles on the floor of St. Patrick's Cathedral

The choir was also particularly impressive, with tons of flags, woodwork, and stonework.

We also visited Christ Church Cathedral, which is less impressive, so not pictured here. However, the delightful cashier recommended strongly a visit to the Jameson's bar (and even which whiskies to order). The history made it worth a visit, but if I were choosing only one, it would be St. Patrick's.

Between the two church visits, we stopped by This is Knit, an adorable little yarn shop where I purchased my first skeins of the trip. One of the workers sells yarn that her daughter dyes by hand, and I'll make a colorwork sweater in vivid colors.

After the churches, we drank - as you do! We visited Jameson Distillery, where Dave got a few samples. If you aren't that into whisky, they do have mixed drinks, which funnily enough seemed to be what most people were ordering. I think they have tours, but we didn't do one.

After the whisky came the beer - we went to Kehoe's Pub (pr: "kee-ohs," barely two syllables) for our first Guinness of the trip. They really are better in Ireland! The place was hopping; the locals tell us that it is much better and less touristy than Temple Bar and some other things around.

Lastly we had dinner at the Old Mill Restaurant, where there was a bit of a line but it moved fast (I think they also take reservations). After the French at lunch, I wanted some fish and chips for dinner.

All in all a great first day in Dublin! We stayed at Kelly's Hotel, which was super cute, but unfortunately above a pub, which kept us up a bit. The main things I'd do again in Dublin are Trinity College Dublin's library and maybe a pub or food tour.

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